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This Video details the entire construction of a high tunnel/ hoop house step by step. This took less than 1 day to build and costs less than $200. Parts 1 and 2 with full construction DIY step by step. Add some 6 mil greenhouse plastic and you have a sturdy structure that will last a long time.

Please use power tools with caution, especially when cutting small pieces. If you are not comfortable with a miter saw, use a table saw or similar. You can also make a jig to hold pieces. Use at your own risk!!!

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Shopping List:

(4) 2 x 6 x 10 ———————————$31.96
galvanized screws————————-$7.96
(22) Conduit holder———————–$6.40
(13) 10′ PVC Sch 40———————-$34.71
(6) PVC Coupler Sch 40—————-$4.38
(2) 2 x 4 x10———————————-$11.00
(8) 2 x 4 x 8———————————–$38.64
(2) screen door kit———————— $10.48
Total $145.53


Build a raised bed to go with this!!!
Cover the Raised bed with a self watering low tunnel!!!


May Collier says:

I love this !! I'm gonna build one for myself. Thank for the great idea.

tom johnson says:

why not use t's or crosses along the top for x-tra support, the nickname stubby is not a good one to have

Stephen Lowther says:

Suggest using electrical pvc instead of irrigation pvc. It is the same price, but is made to be used above ground. Irrigation pvc will tend to "sunburn" and become more brittle.

PLEASE make a jig for improving safety, accuracy, and time efficiency. You are lucky you have all your fingers!

Charles Senf says:

When framing the door frame, there is no need for the bottom rail. Instead find the center and toenail the verticals in place, This will allow for an even taller (1.75"?) door with less limber, Of course, you can cut a spacer 36.5" wide (marked at its center, held with a single screw to the base)) to help you place the verticals, then remove the spacer once the door frame is set in place and screwed down (toenail the screws).

Gary Watters says:

great design, do be carefull with saw blades

Vincent Holland says:

Great video I almost finished my hoop house. Your vide was very helpful.

Charlie says:

A few observations:
>Grey electrical PVC conduit will hold up longer than the white PVC water pipe.
>Your work holding methods for cutting small pieces of PVC is an accident waiting to happen. Please take a few extra minutes and make a proper jig or fixture for cutting small parts, or use a hand saw.

stephencarlsbad says:

Can you get away with 1/2 inch PVC pipe or does it need to be 3/4 for any specific reason?

Country Frau says:

I need to do something like this and appreciate your video. I'll be REALLY interested in how it holds up over the winter. I'm worried about high winds primarily. Please update us in spring.

Nor Kavon says:

I retired 1 month before my 41st birthday (now 57). Have built many a hoophouse since then. A few points: 1) The white PVC will get brittle from UV in a year or so. You will get a few more years if the plastic blocks UV. What will happen is a strong side wind will distort the shape a little causing the pipe to snap and poke a hole through the plastic. Grey electrical PVC is UV protected and lasts much longer in a hoophouse. 2) strong winds will lift that thing like a kite. Many designs extend the pvc beyond the side boards anchored into the ground. You can also use a few screw anchors into the ground attached by cable to the side boards. Good luck and enjoy the hoophouse.

Retired at 40 says:

Please use caution when using a miter saw on small cuts. You can always make a jig for a table saw or similar and not have to work close to the blade.

Mikey Gee says:

Thanks for the vid. Am I missing part 2?

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